DRZ Engine fixes and modifications

Over the years and 34.000 miles we have learned a lot about the Suzuki DRZ. On our old DRZ’s we have done a lot of small things and some big.
Now that we know the model there is a lot of things we wanted to fix or change before going on our big adventure.
We have made this list of all the things that we have done to the bikes and why. We hope this can help other who have chosen this bike for their adventure, daily commute or just for fun.

If you have any questions just ask in the comment form below this post.

Do 3×3 mod on both bikes and ad jet kit

Here is how to do this modification: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/316850-the-master-3×3-post/

The DRZ’s is pretty restricted from stock so it helps a lot to open up the airbox and let the bike get some more air.

We made 3 by 3 inch hole in the airbox and after that we made sure to should check the jetting.

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Ad extended fuel mixture screw

Where to get a fuel mixture screw: https://www.thumpertalk.com/shop/ThumperTalk-DRZ400S-SM-Extended-Fuel-Mixture-Screw-p2006766350.html

Just a nice little thing and it makes it a lot more easy to change the fuel mixture when you change altitude.

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Check jetting and fuel mixture.
Now I am not an expert so we had our friend Douglas Osterkamp do this.
But I can tell a little about the results.

After doing the 3×3 mod the bikes was running lean and we could not move the needle so we got a Dynojet kit and fitted their adjustable needle.
Here are specifications for the jetting for both bikes.

From the standard specs we changes it to

Dynojet needle in 4th clip

Changed main jet to a 132.5

Changed pilot jet to a 25

also made adjustments to the fuel screw and ended up a 1.5 turns.

PS: with luggage we do just over 50 miles pr gallon.

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Counterbalance nut fix (Locktide fix)

How to do this fix: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/853945-questions-regarding-primary-and-counterbalance-nut-fixes/
There is a chance that this nut can come loose so its important to remove the nut, clean it all of and add locktide. (its the nut on the right side of the picture)

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Primary nut fix (Locktide fix)

How to do this fix: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/269170-primary-nut-fix-with-pictures/

Same thing here, the nut can come loose so make to add locktide to the nut. (its the nut on the right side of the picture)

Stator, flywheel and Starter clutch LocTite fix (Locktide fix)

How to do this fix: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/548456-stator-and-starter-clutch-loctite-fix/

There is several little bolts here that can come loose a make a mess of things. We didnt wont to take the chance so we took everything apart and added locktide to all the bolts.

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Front sprocket locknut fix (Locktide fix)

How to do this fix: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/540670-counter-shaft-sprocket-loctite-fix/
ok last locktide fix. Even though there is a locking washer the nut can come loose. It wont fall of but it can get loose enough for the oil seal to get worn and leak.
We have had this happen to our old bikes. We have not had a big leak but it does make a mess when you park at other peoples garages 🙂

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Check valve clearence

Standart specifications for the DRZ is: (in 0.10-0.20 /out 0.20-0.30
Both bikes were within specs but we did do a little fine tuning and made sure to write down the clearance to we know what way it goes when we check next time.

Esben’s bike: in 0.18 & 0.15 /out 0.25
Camilla’s bike: In 0.15/out 0.25

Move kickstart kit from old to new.
After having some battery issues on our old bikes we decided to get a kickstart kit. Its actually just the parts that are used for the DRZ400E model (offroad version).
But you can buy a complete kit online for about 200$.
I can recommend contacting Happy Trail for the parts: http://www.happy-trail.com/electrical-lighting/kick-start-kit-drz400.html
It is a very easy install and totally worth it so you can kickstart the bikes in case the battery is dead.

What we did now was to move the kickstart parts from the old bikes to the new.

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Make oilchange after test ride (clean oil screen too)

So of cause we have changed the oil and have checked the oil level after the bike has been running for a bit. What we have figured out is that it is very important for the bikes to run at least for a couple of minutes before checking the oil level, and to do it pretty quick after turning of the bike.

Also it is VERY important the the bike is level when you check otherwise you might put it way too much or too little oil.
Also we JUST figured out the the bikes also has an oil screen besides the oil filter. So we did pull that out just see it but it was luckily clean.

Install metal reusable oil filter
This is really nice. It will last for many many miles and can be cleaned with whatever solvent you have when you change your oil. Everything from you fuel to dishwashing soap.

This is one place where you can get a oil filter like that: https://www.thumpertalk.com/shop/Maxima-MaxFlow-Stainless-Steel-Oil-Filter-DRZ400-All-p4717808.html

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Install Iridium Spark plug

We have been using these spark plug for a long time. We don’t really have any hard evidence but the bikes seem to run a little better and it seems like we are getting a bit better milage pr gallon.

We use the NGK CR8EIX – Iridium IX Spark Plug

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