DRZ Electrical fixes and add-ons

Over the years and 34.000 miles we have learned a lot about the Suzuki DRZ. On our old DRZ’s we have done a lot of small things and some big.
Now that we know the model there is a lot of things we wanted to fix or change before going on our big adventure.
We have made this list of all the things that we have done to the bikes and why. We hope this can help other who have chosen this bike for their adventure, daily commute or just for fun.

If you have any questions just ask in the comment form down below this post.

Free power mod

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/541623-charging-system-diagnoses-plus-the-free-power-mod/

For some reason the wires from the voltage regulator disappears into the wiring harness, but if you let the wires go directly to the battery you will get 0.5-1 volt more on the battery. That means more power to charge the battery.

Add SHINDENGEN SH775 voltage regulator (Polaris OEM Part # 4012941 Regulator 3PH, 35A, Series, 105C)
The factory Suzuki DRZ400 regulator/rectifier is a “shunt” type. It “shunts” peak current across the stator windings which can cause significant heat buildup in the stator and make it susceptible to prematurely burning out and failing. The SH775 regulator/rectifier however is a “series” type. It has improved technology that “opens” or “blocks” the current. Because of this, there is no “shunt” of current across the stator windings resulting in a cooler operating stator. This is the theory anyways 🙂

I complete install guide can be found on www.remotemoto.com

with the SH775 regulator and the free power mod our bikes now charges with 14.5 volt.

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Add Jumpstarter/Battery tender plug (weego motorsports tether)

This goes directly from the battery and out the back where the connector itself are ziptied to the rear luggage rack.
We can use this to connect a tickle charger via a SAE connector or to connect our Weego JS18 powerbank as a jumpstarter.
The Weego JS18 is a 18.000MhA powerbank with 5 volt USB, 12 volt Coax and a 19 volt output connection.
See more on www.myweego.com

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Add cigarette plug at handlebar.
From this plug we can charge electronics while riding on Camillas bike.
On mine there is a USB plug from the GPS unit for extra charging.
We used a old waterproof cigarette plug we got years ago for our old bikes.

Add charger plug and relay for security (for charging electronics on bike)

This relay draws power directly from the battery and will open when the rear light has power. So only when the ignition key is on.

From the relay the wires split into two. One pair goes out the back ending in a SAE connector for charging electronics while riding. On Esben’s bike this wire can be connected to a waterproof plus so we can charge inside the case.

The other pair goes up behind the headlight where it ends in a waterproof connector. (the one I removed from the bikes wirering when doing the “Free Power mod”
To this connector I have connected the heated grips, GPS and voltmeter is connected on one bike.
On the other bike heated grips, voltmeter and cigarette plug.

 

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Install LED headlight bulb (ADVmonster H4 LED)
Very easy install. Just remove the H4 light bulb and connect the new LED H4 lightbulb.

The difference is easy to see and its going to MUCH MORE fun to ride at night. Also this LED uses a lot less watt’s
A normal H4 lightbulb uses 55/65 watt while this LED uses 20/30 watt.

This LED is properly made in China or something but I got it from Advmonster who only sells high quality stuff.

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Install LED rear/brake light bulb (ADVmonster)

This is much brigther than a normal lightbulband uses less power.
The exact model is called: 1157 Samsung LED bulb 

Remove kickstand switch.
It did not remove it, but just cut the wires. The reason is that when I stand up on the bike the heel of my boot sometimes hit the kickstand and makes it move just enough for the kickstand switch to cut the engine.

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Install voltmeter.
This came from our old bikes and I got it years ago from Advmonster after we had our stator/voltageregulater problems last time.

Its nice to be able to see if your bike is charging right.
You can get the voltmeter here: Waterproof digital voltmeter

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Remove clutch switch.
Well .. I just hate having to pull the clutch to start the bike. Its an easy fix. Just cut the wires and solder the two ends together.

Check Heated grips.
Since we are using the handlebars from our old bikes we did not have to buy new heated grips. The type we are using the a thing wrap you put around the handlebar. Over that you can install any grips of your choice.
We got the heated grips from HappyTrails.

http://www.happy-trail.com/electrical-lighting/symtec-heated-grips.html
Normally you would draw power from a wire just after the ignition key but since we have the a relay installed we are drawing power directly from the battery.

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Install GPS mount and wires

I got a Touratech locking mount for our new GPS. I connected the wires to the relay so the GPS only has power when the bike is running.

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