Hiking Trips

Here you can find information and descriptions of the multi day hikes we have done during our travels. Under each post you will find pictures and links to GPS recordings/maps on GPSies.com

Hiking the Cordrillera Real (day 1-4)

Get the full GPS track and typographic map here over the 158,3 km here: “The Cordrillera Real”. Check out our overview of the hike here and to download the GPX tracks: “Cordrillera Real and Choro Trek (Overview)”. How to prepare for 2 weeks of hiking? Check out this post: “Food, gear and maps for the Cordrillera Real and Choro Trek”. Day 1, Cordrillera Real: 9.7 km (4 hours and 10 minutes) Ascent 500 meters and descent 500 meters Start/finish elevation 3900/3900 meters Highest elevation 4000 meter We got a really late start on our first day. We left La Paz in a mini-bus towards Sorata, but got caught in traffic due to the big market in El Alto (Thursday and Sunday). We finally got dropped off by the trail at 2 pm. We were hungry, and decided to eat lunch before starting the hike at 2.30 pm.   It was time to head out in the Cordrillera Real In the beginning we could follow a trail, but after the small village, Millipaya we lost it…   After loosing the trail we walked between small fields, but after checking the map we decided to walk uphill, and finally found the gravel road (it was a good choice), which we would have to follow until crossing the river in the valley. The clouds were rolling in on us. Due to the late start we didn’t make it across the river, where we could have found a place to camp on the other side. It was getting dark, and we decided to “emergency” camp next to a irrigation canal, so we would have easy access to water. We always try to camp, where we have access to water, it makes cooking and refilling our water bladders so much easier. Also it got below freeze every night during the hike, which made it impossible to use our MSR Guardian water purifier in the morning, simply because it was frozen.   Day 2, Cordrillera Real: 14.5 km (8 hours and 50 minutes) Ascent 980 meters and descent 440 meters Start/finish elevation 3900/4500 meters Highest elevation 4870 meter On our way to our first pass on the hike in the Cordrillera Real With heavy backpacks Esben was pushed to the limit on our second day – we climbed almost 1000 meters in elevation     You always feel better after a Snickers! View of the valley in the left picture, and in the right picture you have views of lake Titicaca   This day we just walked after the GPS points we have on the map, there was absolutely no trail or road to follow, so we spend a lot of time on navigation today. We quickly learned, that it was important to check the map often. When we got too much out off course, we would loose time nd use even more energy, it was better to check the map very often, and enjoy the small brakes. We also had the nature to ourselves, it was amazing.   We made it over the pass, and found a trail leading towards Laguna San Francisco, where we had planned to camp. Looking downhill towards Laguna San Francisco, where a river delta is prominent in the valley.   Following a trail, that maybe once had been a road. Passing a partly frozen waterfall as we descended towards the valley floor   Finally at the bottom of the valley, we walked further up to find a place to camp. After this day Esben was not sure, that he could continue on the hike… it was just really hard to walk in this altitude, and what made this day really hard was the decent from 3900 meter to 4870 meters, which was almost 1000 meters in elevation, that we had to climb.I (Esben) just did not feel I was getting enough oxygen no matter how fast or deeply I breathed. Anyways, it was already the first day really worn out and even if the view was amazing I did not enjoy the hike all.But luckily over the next days I felt a little better and we also decided to skip some of the high passes to conserve energy. Amazing camp spot, just next to the river delta, which made it easy for us to get water Day 3, Cordrillera Real: 11,9 km (6 hours and 25 minutes) Ascent 540 meters and descent 300 meters Start/finish elevation 4500/4750 meters Highest elevation 4960 meter The next morning Esben was standing again. We walked further up river to find a more dry and narrow place to cross the river and the wetland/river delta. The good thing about crossing the wetland in the morning is that everything is frozen, this makes the ground more solid and thereby easier to cross without sinking in to deep, and keeping your feet dry.   After crossing the valley we found a trail heading uphill in the right direction. It makes it so much easier to walk, when there is a trail to follow. Still keep an eye on the map, so you know, that you are going in the right direction.   Looking back towards the valley, with the snow covered mountains in the back ground, the highest peak is Ancohuma, 6427 meters We could pretty much follow the trail the rest of the day, and our climb in elevation was ”only” 500 meters making this an easier day compared to yesterday (we climbed almost 1000 meters in elevation yesterday).   We still had to climb one last steep and sandy part to reach the top of the pass   For a short time we lost the trail, but after the steep climb in the sand, we quickly found it again Panoramic view of the valley, that we just came from Enjoying getting to the top, and Esben was still standing… even smiling We could follow a trail as we descended towards Laguna Chojna Khota – meeting the first patch of snow   As we reached Laguna

Food, gear and maps for the Cordrillera Real and Choro Trek

Preparation of meals and snacks before a multiday hike is essential if you want to be able to enjoy the hike. We really focus on getting enough calories, carbohydrates and protein in our main meals, so our bodies have more energy, and we fell better when hiking. Also we sleep better during the night, if we don’t wake up hungry in the middle of the night. BUT bringing enough food for 13 days is difficult, so we knew, that we would be in energy deficiency during the hike. Also hiking in high altitude will reduce your hunger. Overview photo of all the food, that was planned to last 13 days in the Cordrillera Real, Bolivia We also have to take into account that Esben burns more calories than me (Camilla), because Esben weighs 20-25 kg more than me and is male, which means that he by nature burns more calories. We carry about the same amount of weight in our backpacks, because it equals our difference in physical fitness. We have met a lot of others hikers, where the man/guy carries a heavier backpack, which means that he will burn even more calories, than the girls carrying less weight. So how to plan the meals so Esben gets more calories than me? 1. Esbens breakfast is bigger, also I added peanuts to raise the amount of fat and calories 2. Esbens trailsmix is bigger 3. Esben gets to eat one Snickers chocolate bar per day (no Snickers for me) 4. We share lunch and dinner, but I try to eat a little bit less than Esben (which can be difficult, when I am really hungry) The majority of food is dried, and has to be mixed with water. The multiday hikes we have done so far, water has been easy to find on our way. Remember that you body need around 1 gram of protein per kg of your bodyweight. When you are physical active the need for protein is higher, and when hiking it will be 1,2-1,4 grams per kg of your bodyweight. So the main meals should contain at least 25-30 grams of protein per person. This post is written with a background as a clinical dietician and a personal trainer for 10 years. This is what works really well for us, when we go hiking, but off course it can be done different. I just hope that you will get inspired. Also here in South America it is almost impossible to buy ready freeze dried food fx Mountainhouse, and if you find it, it is really expensive. So this is also a cheaper solution. We don’t carry a lot of spices but on this hike we chose to bring bullion, chili, pepper and ketchup. Ketchup is always a life saver. We try to avoid canned food, because it is heavy, and the cans makes the amount of garbage bigger. Here in Bolivia we found dried meat (it is similar to beef Jerky in the US), and had two bag of 100 grams of dried beef (flavor: spicy and BBQ). This added additional 75 grams of protein per bag (in total 150 grams of protein) to our diet during the hike. The 2 bags of dried meat had to last for 3 meals, adding 25 grams of protein per person per meal. Also the dried meat was a nice change from the soy protein.   Different kinds of soup and sauce powder to be mixed with soy protein or pasta   BREAKFAST The breakfast is prepared in portions in Ziploc bags before we go on the hike. I mix oats (one minute and old fashion), granola (we prefer chocolate flavor), nuts/raisins/rice puffs, milk powder (1 scoop), vanilla protein powder (1 scoop) and cinnamon or chocolate powder for different flavor (then you don’t have to feel, that you are eating the same every morning). To add more carbs you can add dried fruit or nuts to add more fat and calories. Try to mix it all together in a bowl to evaluate the size of the breakfast, it should be bigger than, what you eat on a normal day with less physical activity. 1 scoop of milk powder and 1 scoop of protein powder raises the amount of protein to 30-35 grams, if you don´t add it, the protein content will be only 10 grams. Esben’s breakfast contains a bigger amount of oats, granola and nuts to make sure he gets enough calories for breakfast. 12 bags of prepared breakfast (just add cold or warm water) for each of us, because you need 12 breakfast for 13 days, since you will eat breakfast before leaving on day 1.   We also carried tea and coca leaves for the Cordrillera Real. Because we had to carry food for 13 days, we didn’t bring cacao powder or instant coffee, it was a matter of reducing the total weight of the food. Right picture: breakfast in the tent.   LUNCH For breakfast we boil water for tea, at the same time we fill our thermal bottle with hot water (1 liter). The hot water makes it easy to make mashed potatoes from powder. This lunch is 125 grams of powder mashed potato mixed with 1/2 liter of hot water (2 persons). In the right picture it is served with soaked soy protein (75 grams for 2 persons). 75 grams of soy protein contains 35 grams of protein, and together with mashed potato or polenta, sauce and milk powder each person will get 20-25 grams of protein. In the left picture you see, one bag of polenta (750 grams) which had to last for 4 meals, and next to the polenta is powder mashed potato (250 grams), which had to last for 2 meals. In the right picture you see a bag of soy protein (300 grams), which had to last for 4 meals. The ziplock bag contains milk powder.   On this hike we also enjoyed two meals with cheese and two

Cordrillera Real and Choro Trek (Overview)

Hiking 219,8 km in the Cordrilla Real and the Choro Trek (5-19th of August 2018) We started our hike 20 km south of Sorata and started hiking on the west side of the Cordrillera, where we hiked 158,3 km in 12 days, and ended this part of the hike in Chaca Pampa. From Chaca Pampa we caught a ride with a local to the Refugio Huayna Potosi. Here we bought a roll of toilet paper (yes we were out and had been rationing it for the last 4 days) from lady in a minibus, and started to hike towards the Choro Trek. From the Huayna Potosi to the end of the Choro Trek (ends in Chairo) we hiked 61,5 kilometers in 3,5 days. In total we hiked 219,8 km in 15 days including half a day of transport in each end. I used my Garmin Fenix 3 to record our route each day, the distance and elevation for each day is in the overview for each individual day further down. When you use the link for www.gpsies.com to check out our route, the hiking in the Cordrillera Real is 132.15 km and the Choro Trek is 52.41 km. The shorter distance is due to simplification (less GPS points) and that it calculates the distance accordingly to the GPS points and the typographic map. Get the full GPS track and typographic map here over the first 158,3 km here: “The Cordrillera Real” Get the full GPS track and typographic map over the 61,5 km here: “The Choro Trek” Looking towards Huayna Potosí in the clouds Get the full GPS track and typographic map here over the first 158,3 km here: “The Cordrillera Real” Overview of the individual daysDay 1, Cordrillera Real: 9.7 km (4 hours and 10 minutes) Ascent 500 meters and descent 500 meters Start/finish elevation 3900/3900 meters Highest elevation 4000 meter Day 2, Cordrillera Real: 14.5 km (8 hours and 50 minutes) Ascent 980 meters and descent 440 meters Start/finish elevation 3900/4500 meters Highest elevation 4870 meter Day 3, Cordrillera Real: 11,9 km (6 hours and 25 minutes) Ascent 540 meters and descent 300 meters Start/finish elevation 4500/4750 meters Highest elevation 4960 meter Day 4, Cordrillera Real: 10,2 km (7 hours and 5 minutes) Ascent 470 meters and descent 660 meters Start/finish elevation 4750/4520 meters Highest elevation 5175 meter Day 5, Cordrillera Real: 11,2 km (6 hours and 40 minutes) Ascent 560 meters and descent 220 meters Start/finish elevation 4520/4840 meters Highest elevation 4850 meter Day 6, Cordrillera Real: 11.6 km (8 hours and 35 minutes) Ascent 490 meters and descent 850 meters Start/finish elevation 4840/4530 meters Highest elevation 5325 meter   Day 7, Cordrillera Real: 14.4 km (8 hours and 45 minutes) Ascent 575 meters and descent 550 meters Start/finish elevation 4530/4520 meters Highest elevation 5025 meter Day 8, Cordrillera Real: 20.3 km (7 hours and 45 minutes) Ascent 400 meters and descent 500 meters Start/finish elevation 4520/4420 meters Highest elevation 4605 meter Day 9, Cordrillera Real: 13.5 km (5 hours and 25 minutes) Ascent 585 meters and descent 360 meters Start/finish elevation 4420/4550 meters Highest elevation 4680 meter Day 10, Cordrillera Real: 11.7 km (6 hours and 15 minutes) Ascent 670 meters and descent 500 meters Start/finish elevation 4550/4770 meters Highest elevation 5075 meter   Day 11, Cordrillera Real: 14.1 km (8 hours and 5 minutes) Ascent 860 meters and descent 885 meters Start/finish elevation 4770/4700 meters Highest elevation 5120 meter Day 12, Cordrillera Real: 15.2 km (5 hours and 25 minutes) Ascent 280 meters and descent 1310 meters Start/finish elevation 4700/3660 meters Highest elevation 4890 meter Day 12 was split in two, because we finished the hike in the Cordrillera Real in the village, Chaca Pampa to 2 pm. The trailhead for the Choro trek (where we chose to start) was at the Refugio Huayna Potosi, which was 15 kilometers further up the road, and it was pretty much up hill all the way. The 15 kilometers and 1100 meters in elevation would take at least 5 hours to walk, which would be impossible to make today. Since it was just a walk on a gravel road, we decided to wait for a ride. Not many cars are passing by here. During the next hour 4 cars past by, the first was full, the next two turned of the sideroad to Chaca Pampa, but then a silver pickup truck stopped. We explained, that we only needed to go to the Refugio Huayna Potosi, and he was willing to give us a ride. We decided to give him 20 BOB, when we were dropped off, to pay for the gasoline, and in hope off, that he would pick up other hikers in the future. At 3.30 pm we were on the trail leading from Huayna Potosí towards the Choro Trek.   Get the full GPS track and typographic map over the 61,5 km here: “The Choro Trek” Day 12, Huayna Potosi to Choro Trek: 5.5 km (2 hours and 35 minutes) Ascent 205 meters and descent 330 meters Start/finish elevation 4760/4640 meters Highest elevation 4950 meter Day 13, Choro trek day 1: 25.6 km (7 hours and 55 minutes) Ascent 140 meters and descent 2425 meters Start/finish elevation 4640/2370 meters Highest elevation 4640 meter Day 14, Choro trek day 2: 22.4 km (7 hours and 40 minutes) Ascent 720 meters and descent 900 meters Start/finish elevation 2370/2005 meters Highest elevation 2300 meter Day 15, Choro trek day 3: 8 km (2 hours and 20 minutes) Ascent 15 meters and descent 700 meters Start/finish elevation 2005/1280 meters Highest elevation 1960 meter Check out our preparations (gear, food and maps) for doing this hike unsupported in the next post. We really hope, that this post will help and inspire you to go on multiday hikes.

The hike of our lives (4/5 days on Sierra Valdivieso)

We have been on some amazing day and multi-day hikes in both Chile and Argentina. Why do this? To experience the nature as close as possible, and to go out in nature where it is only possible by walking. Also on the multi-day hikes usually we get away from the crowd. On my list (and if it is on my list, I will add it to Esben's list) is a 4 day hike on Isla Navarino (located just south of Ushuaia) called Dientes de Navarino, what we didn’t know was that the price of taking a 30 minute boat ride and an 1,5 hour bus ride would cost 250 USD per person (roundtrip). It would have been cheaper to fly from Punta Arenas in Chile to Isla Navarino. Isidro (our host and our Argentinian family) instead suggested a hike in the Andes mountains just north of Ushuaia called “Sierra Valdivieso”. First mountain pass hiking the Sierra Valdivieso After doing some research on Google we found one GPS track: https://www.gpsies.com/map.do?fileId=difchbideyrgyxns with a description made 2 years ago, but we also knew, that things change quickly in the mountains. We downloaded the trail, and used it on a typographic map on the cellphone. We also had a trail on Maps.me but it was a lot shorter then the GPS track. We were not able to find any detailed map with the trail on, so we decided to use the two maps (the typographic map with the GPS track and Maps.me) on the cellphone. I also read a description of the hike on a blog, that was from January 2016, simply because  couldn’t find anything newer. It sounded like the perfect adventure. Several places in both descriptions there had not been at trail to follow, so for the first time we would get more experience in reading the maps and finding our own way. It added a new layer to our hiking experience. I recorded the whole hike on my Garmin Fenix 3 watch. If you want to do this hike – you can find more information and the GPS track and typographic map at the end of this post. What did we bring of food, check out this post “Get inspired - how to eat right when hiking”. Day 1 started with breakfast at Isidro’s house. The last piece of fresh fruit for the next 4 days.   Day 1: 17 km, ascent 300 meters, descent 400 meters and walking time 6:10 hours We parked Lance at the end of the trail, and walked 3 kilometers on Ruta 3 before taking a right turn onto a gravel road. We crawled across a few gates, and met a local farmer. He was the last person we would see for days. So the beginning of the trail was easy going.   But not for long! All we had to do was to follow the river, but soon the trail just disappeared. If we got too close to the river the underbrush was too dense, so we had to walk in between the trees. It sound easy, but it was slow going. Some placed we think, that we were following some kind of trail, but it kept disappearing.   Several times we had to stop, and take some of these off. They are not a problem, when they are located around the ankle's, but when they got closer and closer to the crutch, we really felt how they could sting through our pants.   Further along the trial or no trail, we found clear evidence of the beavers. The Canadian beavers were introduced to the island in 1946 to try and establish a fur trade. There is urgency to eradicate the beaver, as some bold beavers are starting to swim the Magellan Strait across to Patagonia where they are now settling (Source: https://blog.nationalgeographic.org/2016/01/31/chasing-beaver-at-the-end-of-the-world/). As you can see on the pictures the eradication has not worked.   With no native predators and a vulnerable ecosystem, the beavers have had the complete run of the island, and have literally begun terraforming it with their network of beaver dams. It is estimated the beavers inhabit an area of about 60,000 hectares, necessarily restricted to the waterways. Everyday during the hike we saw the destruction and consequences of the beaver dams, so keep reading! We finished day 1 after crossing the river. We already  knew from our research online, that we would encounter several river crossings, and did some research how to walk across. (1) always walk upstream when finding a spot to cross, then you know what is downriver if you trip and get dragged downriver, (2) unbuckle your backpack, so you can easily get it off if you trip, (3) with trekking poles walk sideways with your chest pointing up river, (4) start further up river than your planned exit point, so you don’t get in a situation where you have to walk against the current and (5) don’t hurt your feet, we usually wear our Crocs.   Day 2: 14,5 km, ascent 750 meters, descent 300 meters and walking time 8:10 hours   On day 2 we started walking in this (upper and lower pictures)… it is some kind of red moss. It is red, very wet and extremely soft, and extremely demanding to walk in. Every time we took a step, we had to lift our feet to a knee high position to take the next step. We looked at both our maps. Maps.me was following the river through the red moss, but the GPS track was on higher ground. So we decided to go for the GPS track, and got to higher ground. At the same time we also hit dense forest a lot of places. There was absolutely no trail to see or follow. We fought our way through the forest making our own trail.   The good thing about being in the forest was that the ground was more dry, but being on higher ground also meant that we had to climb

4-days on the Huemul Trail (El Chaltén)

It was four magnificent days we had on the Huemul trail, but also the hardest and most difficult hike we have ever done. We would recommend the hike, but also keep in mind that the trail has steep and long ascents and descents. Also you have to have good weather, otherwise you can’t enjoy the amazing views. If I have to pick the best moment on the hike, it was the sight of the huge 977 km2 glacier Viedma I have a Garmin Fenix 3 watch, that I use for recording our hikes. If you want to do this hike - you can find more information and download the GPS trail and typographic map at the end of this post. Day 1: 17km ascent 750 meters and descent 500 meters The first day is quite easy going, and has a few good views over lake Viedma and we also passed by a smaller glacier. The Huemul trail starts at the visitor center for Los Glaciares National Park, and the hike is on a well marked trail to Laguna Toro, were we camped at the campground. The campground has good shelter, one pit toilet and no view at all, because it is located between tree at a cliff wall.   As we got to Rio Túnel the trail follows the river all the way to Laguna Toro We picked some calafate berries on the way. They are quite tasty, but small. Also making it across a few smaller river crossings     Then we got to this river, and two other hikers were putting on their boots on the other side. So we figured out, that we had to go on the other side (left picture)… BUT after getting to the other side, putting on the hiking boots, and only walking for 10 minutes we found out, that we were trapped on a small island in the middle of the river. The only way to get back on track, was two walk across the river one more time. We never found out if there was way to the right side of the river. Just saying that the water in the river come from melting glaciers, and it is freezing COLD   So we ended day 1 with clean feet. Day 2: 15km ascent 1000 meters and descent 700 meters This was the toughest day on the hike, but also the most amazing day. From Laguna Toro (the water was just grey) we climbed to towards glacier Rio Túnel Inferior, but before reaching the glacier we had to cross a river using a zip line.     A lot of people were on the trail, but we got an early start, so only four people were in front of us for the zip line. The mandatory equipment for this hike is: one harness, two carabineers and a safety line per person, which we had rented in town the day before, and a typographic map plus a 35 meter thin rope for the pulley on the zip line (per group), which we had to buy in a camping store. The map was useful, but we never needed the 35 meters of thin rope.   Now we just had to get to the glacier   At the bottom left side of the glacier, we could get on the glacier and went on our own small glacier hike. We never thought, that it would be so amazing to get the change to walk on a glacier.   At the same time we also had t be really careful, because we were walking on the ice with no crampons (a metal rack with spikes, that you attach underneath your hiking boots). The ice got really slippery, when the surface was not level.   Panoramic view of Glacier Rio Túnel Inferior Nothing last forever and we still had a long way to go, so it was time to get off the glacier – tasting glacier water from the first time   After getting off the glacier, we had lunch before climbing 1000 meters in elevation to the top of “Paso del Viento”. If you want to know more about what and how much food we bring on a 4 day hiking trip, read this post: “Get inspired – how to eat right when hiking”.   We walked up hill or more up the mountain side for 3 hours. Talking several breaks on our way, some 30 seconds and other 10 minutes. To be able to walk al day and for several days, it is important to take breaks, drink plenty of water and eat snacks. On a day like this Esben burn off about 4000 kcal. The trail turned from easy to follow to totally disappearing due to a landslide. The closer we got to the top of the pass the more rocks and loose grave we meet.   It as worth every drop of sweat – yes we had amazing and total clear weather. Here it only happen 4 times a year (that is what the local told us in El Chaltén)! In this pictures you see Laguna Túnel Superior, to the left Glacier Rio Túnel Superior o de Quervain and to the right Glacier Rio Túnel Inferior (the glacier we walked on). Getting over the pass “Paso del Viento” (the windy pass) was a victory! The large 977 km2 Glacier Viedma Viedma is a part of the huge Southern Patagonian Ice Field, located at the southern end of the mainland of South America. Viedma Glacier is a valley glacier and its moraine-rich terminus flows into the western end of Lake Viedma. Viedma is also located in the undefined part of the limit between Chile and Argentina. So here in Argentina Viedma is in Los Glaciares National Park, and in Chile it is a part of Bernardo O’Higgins National Park.   The massive force of Viedma has created is wall of rocks and sediment. What an amazing force mother nature possesses   After more than 8

Get inspired–how to eat right when hiking

Preparation of meals and snacks before a multiday hike is essential if you want to be able to enjoy the hike. We really focus on getting enough calories and protein in our main meals, so our bodies have more energy, and we fell better when hiking. Also we sleep better during the night, if we don’t wake up hungry in the middle of the night. An overview photo of the we had with us on the 4-day hike in Cerro Castillo Natural Reserve An overview photo of the we had with us on the 4/5-day hike "Sierra Valdivieso" In the left picture is 4 x lunch including 2 extra meals (only mashed potatoe in powder and polenta). In the right pictures is 3 x dinner.    In the left pictures you have the food, that we mixed into our own trail-mix: peanuts, roasted fava beans, raisins, corn nuts (inca corns) and chocolate cereal puff with nutella inside. For dessert we had packed chocolate crackes and a jar of peanut butter. In the right picture you have our breakfast.    We also have to take into account that Esben burns more calories than me (Camilla), because Esben weighs 20-25 kg more than me and is male, which means that he by nature burns more calories. We carry about the same amount of weight in our backpacks, because it equals our difference in physical fitness. We have met a lot of others hikers, where the man/guy carries a heavier backpack, which means that he will burn even more calories than the girls carrying less weight. So how to plan the meals so Esben gets more calories than me? Esbens breakfast is bigger Esbens trailsmix is bigger Esben gets to eat one Snickers chocolate bar per day (no Snickers for me) We share lunch and dinner, but I try to eat a little bit less than Esben (which can be difficult, when I am really hungry) The majority of food is dried, and has to be mixed with water. The multiday hikes we have done so far, water has been easy to find on our way. Remember that you body need around 1 gram of protein per kg of your bodyweight. When you are physical active the need for protein is higher, and when hiking it will be 1,2-1,4 grams per kg of your bodyweight. So the main meals should contain at least 30 grams of protein per person. Many times I have met other hikers that only eats food primarily is a source of fat and carbohydrates, because they need energy for the hike. First we have fat stored on our body. Second cabohydrates is stores in our liver and muscles, but has to be refueled everyday when you are physical active. Third our primarily storage of protein is our muscles, if you don't eat enought protein in your diet, your body will start eating of its muscles. This process will typically start on day one during the night, the process will continue if you don't eat protein. The more days you don't eat the sufficient amount of protein, the more musclemass you will loose. So the most important nutrients for your body during a hike is cabohydrates and protein. You can use food with a high content of fat to raises your daily intake of calories. This post is written with a background as a clinical dietician and a personal trainer for 10 years. This is what works really well for us, when we go hiking, but off course it can be done different. I just hope that you will get inspired. Also here in Patagonia it is almost impossible to buy ready freeze dried food fx Mountainhouse, and if you find it, it is really expensive. So this is also a cheaper solution.     We don’t carry a lot of spices but bullion and ketchup. Ketchup is always a life saver. We try to avoid canned food, because it is heavy, and the cans makes the amount of garbage bigger. Anyway our the hike in Cerro Castillo Natural reserve we had to cans of salmon, and on the Huemul trail we had one can of mackerel, because it is nice to something else than soy protein. Getting an overview of how many meals we have to bring for the two of us: 3*breakfast, 4*lunch and 3*dinner per person BREAKFAST The breakfast is prepared in portions in Ziploc bags before we go on the hike. I mix oats (one minute and old fashion), granola (we prefer chocolate flavor), nuts, milk powder (1 scoop), vanilla protein powder (1 scoop) and cinnamon or chocolate powder for  different flavor (then you don’t have to fill, that you are eating the same every morning). To add more carbs you can add dried fruit. Try to mix it all together in a bowl to evaluate the size of the breakfast, it should be bigger than, what you eat on a normal day with less physical activity. 1 scoop of milk powder and 1 scoop of protein powder raises the amount of protein to 30 grams, if you don´t add it, the protein content will be only 10 grams. Esben’s breakfast contains a bigger amount of oats, granola and nuts to make sure he gets enough calories for breakfast. We also carries tea, cacao powder mixed with some milk powder for hot chocolate and the instant coffee is mixed with some milk powder, because I like milk in my coffee. You just have to add water (not boiling!) int the ziplock bag, and your breakfast is ready.   Here is the recipe (1 scoop is 30 grams of protein powder): 1 scoop of milk powder, 1 scoop of protein powder, 1 (small or big) hand full of peanuts, 2 scoops of oats (old fashion style), 0-3 scoops of 1-minutes oats and 1,5-3 scoops of chocolate granola. I had 0 scoops of 1-minutes oats and 1,5 scoop of chocolate granola, and Esben had 2 scoops of 1-minute

The 4-day hike in Cerro Castillo National Reserve

After our 2-day hike to Mont Tronador we really wanted to more multiday hiking. We really wanted to do the “circuit trail” in the National Park Torres del Paine, but it was impossible to make reservations for the campgrounds, which is mandatory before getting a permit to enter the trail. We tried to make reservations 3-4 months in advance, but it was to late. On our map we had marked hiking in Cerro Castillo National Reserve, named after the peak of Cerro Castillo (2,675 meters). I looked for trails in the Cerro Castillo National Reserve and found a 4-day hike. Also the description of the hike, said that the hike was a quieter alternative to hiking in Torres del Paine.Cerro Castillo is a National Reserve, which covers 180,000 hectares. The 4-day hike offers views of hanging glaciers, freezing rivers, snow covered passes and amazing crystal blue lakes. Laguna Cerro Castillo with Mont Cerro Castillo in the background   I have a Garmin Fenix 3 watch, that I use for recording our hikes. If you want to do this hike - you can find more information and download the GPS trail and typographic map at the end of this post.  Day 1: 26 km ascent 900 meters and descent 500 meters   We stayed at a Hostel and Campground in Villa Cerro Castillo, where we met a German couple (backpackers). We made an agreement, that they would drop us of at the trailhead “Las Horquetas”, and drive Lance back to the Hostel and Campground in Villa Cerro Castillo. So we had an early start at 9 am. The distance from the Hostel and Campground was 29 km, so why not just hitchhike? The day before we had met so many hitchhikers in Villa Cerro Castillo, who have been waiting for more than 5 hours without getting a ride, so we just didn’t want to get stuck on the first day without getting to the trailhead. A bridge and a man made bridge   But then there was no bridges, and we had to go across barefooted, in the freezing water   Entering Cerro Castillo National Reserve. The entry fee is 5,000 pesos when you enter from this side of the trail, and they even gave us a map for the trail (included in the price). In Villa Cerro Castillo there is a PRIVATE entrance, where you pay 10,000 pesos to walk across private land to reach the “Laguna Cerro Castillo” (day hike). Our plan was to hike from "Las Horqutas” to “Segundo Camping”, but when we got to the campground at 3 pm, we were getting eaten by horse flies. We decided to continue to escape from the horse flies.   We got out of the forest, and the trail started to climb up into the mountains Soon we were where hiking across a snow covered pass – no horse flies anymore   Following the trail…   Getting up takes a lot more effort, than skiing down in our hiking boots Now our challenge was to find a level spot for the tent without snow. We can set up the tent on the snow, but it makes it more difficult to keep warm during the night. After the descent from the pass, we were met by the sight of a hanging glacier accompanied by 10-20 smaller waterfalls. We found a level spot, and set up the tent – what an amazing place. We decided to camp between the two campgrounds “Segundo” and “El Bosque”, because we were too tired to walk any further. Day 2: 17 km ascent 850 meters and descent 1100 meters We took it really slow the next morning and enjoyed the coffee while the sun was still rising.   Ready to continue after a look at the map Ready to see more glaciers   We descended into the forest   Today the trail was going up and down, but finally we got to Laguna Cerro Castillo   Laguna Cerro Castillo, the blue colored was amazing and water is clean enough to drink   Climbing to the next viewpoint, that overlooks Villa Cerro Castillo   Panoramic view of Villa Cerro Castillo – this is a clear day After a very steep descent to we made it to the campground “Los Porteadores”   Day 3: 10 km ascent 600 meters and descent 300 meters Just a really short day from “Los Porteadores” to “Camping Neozelandés”. The “Los Porteadores” campground was packed, and instead of pushing ourselves and complete the hike in 3 days (we had food for 4 days anyway) we decided to pack everything, and camp at “Neozelandés” instead of two nights at “Los Porteadores”. From there I hiked to “Laguna Duff”. Esben’s knee was hurting, so he was relaxing in the tent   Laguna Duff with a few very small pieces of floating ice Day 4: 15 km ascent 150 meters and descent 1000 meters Nothing special on the way back, so we walk out of Cerro Castillo National Reserve, and had to crawl under a fence to get to the road that lead back to town. It was an amazing hike, there was other people on the trail, but we still felt alone most of the time. We highly recommend the hike . Are you ready for this hike? Get the map and GPS track for the here: https://www.gpsies.com/map.do?fileId=uiatrbflfkuetqpz

The hike to Mont Tronador (Nahuel Huapi National Park)

The sunrise at Mont Tronador was waiting for us! When we woke up the next morning the weather had cleared, and we drove the last 31 km to Pampa Linda, were we met up with Jorden and Forest (the couple to the right) and Taisa and Ernesto (the couple to the left). The hike started quite easy, and it was great having breath to both walk and talk with our friends on the way up. Enjoying the green scenery the first half of the hike   Then the trail started to climb, and we got to one of the first viewpoints with the first sight of the hanging glacier, which was melting in the sun. Making jokes about, that we just had to walk to the glacier, we already could see in the distance.   We were headed towards the shelter (refugio) Otto Meiling, which is placed between the two glaciers, Castaño overo and Alerce. Before getting to the glaciers we had to walk over big patches of snow.   Because of all the snow the summer trail to Otto Meiling had been changed, which involved climbing steep rocks. We use trekking poles both going up and down the trail. It helps take of strain on my knees, which are unstable after several surgeries. For Esben it helps him keep his balance when standing on his left leg after it has been broken twice. It is all about getting safe up and down for us, though we have our injuries.   Getting closer Meeting some of the locals that lives up here. In the left picture you see a Chichillión (45 cm long), it only lives in rocky areas in higher elevation and are a herbivore. They love sunbathing .   Arriving at the Otto Meiling shelter at an elevation of 1800 meters, after climbing 1000 meters in elevation and walking about 14 km. In the right picture you see Mont Tronador in the background.   Camping on a glacier – that’s a first! AMAZING   Was it cold? Yes, so we send a few hours inside the shelter before hitting the sleeping bags. Some drinking a few beers, that you can actually buy at the shelter – but Esben had to make due with water.   When we were heading for the tents to get a good night sleep the mountains had disappeared in a thick cloud. Now, we were just hoping for the sky to clear, so we could see the sunrise over Mont Tronador the next morning. BUT… the weather cleared during the night .   The next morning our alarm went of at 6.00 am – we woke up to this on the 31st of December, the last day of the year 2017   Nothing else but amazing Esben was my man, and he got out of the tent as the first to take some amazing pictures   A great thing about doing a hike with other people is that they take pictures of you, and you take pictures of them. This way we (and the others) got pictures, that we could not take ourselves. Here is one of Jordan and Forest taken by Esben. After a nap we packed down everything and headed back to Pampa Linda… New Years Eve was waiting. A lot of trails both in Argentina and Chile is not a loop, but you have to walk the same trail on the way back, which gives you the opportunity to see the view again. The view going up and down the trail to the Otto Meiling Shelter was amazing. Back in the green scenery finishing the last few kilometers we decided to head back to Camping Ser to celebrate New Years Eve together Back at Camping Ser we shared the food we had left, and had a great evening with great friends   It must be the tiredness from the hiking trip, because we forgot to make a New Years resolution. What was your New Years resolution? It is almost a year since we left Denmark, so our one year travel anniversary is coming up on the 11th of January. After talking about a New Years resolution we have both come to the conclusion, that we would like to have a positive “tailwind” with us for the rest of our trip in South America. This means good weather, no accidents, no major breakdown for Lance and more fun adventures. We just want to able to use our energy, on what is important for us .